UPDATE FROM MABULA
I have had a very rough 2 months unfortunately health wise. I was struck 3x in a row with bacterial infections. The second infection occurred  after a routine hospital checkup and I became very sick. I had to rest and take a lot of antibiotics. Once I was recovering and restarting work 1 month ago, I again became sick. The infection was not yet gone, so even more antibiotics and rest was needed. Needless to say, it took a lot of my energy and I needed a lot of rest.
Finally, the infection is really gone and my energy is coming back step-by-step now and I have started work again. I am terribly sorry to have kept you waiting for support. I will address all outstanding questions and e-mails step-by step and will be on the forum daily from today.
APP 2.0.0-beta47 will come soon as well, a lot of work was already completed before I became very ill, so the release is also nearly ready for you. Beta47 will be much faster actually. Many workflows will be more than 2x faster, mosaics can even be 10x faster than before because registration really received a major boost... all compared to beta46. Â Before I release it, I will make sure that everything is working properly and then I will release it.
Hello,
I usually use QHY168C (it is cooled camera so I have never minded dark scaling), but recently I have started building new portable kit with Sony Alpha 5000. I think taking darks every night would be a massive pain, so I am interested in dark scaling, but I don't understand one think - how it deales with different temperatures? I read all exif data of sony raw file and I didn't find any temperature value. Therefore I would apprecieate information how excatly dark scaling works.
Â
Best Regards
It is not required to take darks every session, just do it maybe once or twice a year for a cooled camera (and make one with say 80 or so). Also, a Bad Pixel Map is good to use always as that will work for that sensor at all times. Scaling is not advised, it can be done when the signal is linear, but if there is any other issue like amp-glow, it doesn't scale properly. With a non-cooled camera, I typically make a dark library of a few different temperatures. Since that is quite tricky, I just make a good one every season. When your sensor changes with say 5 oC (or the outside temperature), that would be a nice boundary to decide when to make new ones. It isn't ideal, but that is exactly why cooled camera's were invented.
Thanks! I think I will do so - with about 3 different exposure times every 5 degree.
