Mar 28 2026 APP 2.0.0-beta40 will be released in 7 days.
It did take a long time to have the work finished on this and it will have a major performance boost of 30-50% over 2.0.0-beta39 from calibration to integration. We extensively optimized many critical parts of APP. All has been tested to guarantee correct optimizations. Drizzle and image resampling is much faster for instance, those modules have been completely rewritten. Much less memory usage. LNC 2.0 will be released which works much better and faster than LNC in it's current state. And more, all will be added to the release notes in the coming weeks...
Update on the 2.0.0 release & the full manual
We are getting close to the 2.0.0 stable release and the full manual. The manual will soon become available on the website and also in PDF format. Both versions will be identical and once released, will start to follow the APP release cycle and thus will stay up-to-date to the latest APP version.
Once 2.0.0 is released, the price for APP will increase. Owner's license holders will not need to pay an upgrade fee to use 2.0.0, neither do Renter's license holders.
Hi guys,
A quick (very basic question):
I export my APP image as tiff and in the Mac Preview App I am actually quite happy with the result.
However when I now import it to Photoshop / Camera Raw the levels are immediately messed up... When I fiddle around with the levels I always end up with loads of noise or a dark image that I have to blow up with curves ... Any idea what I am doing wrong?
Dropbox File (Private or Invalid)
Thanks a lot for your help 🙂 Damn these globular clusters are doing my head in (especially when I have the stupid idea to compare my image with Sara Wager's M3 http://www.swagastro.com/m3-globular-cluster.html .....)
Hi Frank,
Possibly, Photoshop has a problem with handling 32bits TIFFs that APP creates from your stack. I have it on the RFC list to give you the possibility to save it as 16bits TIFFs and possibly this will help you in the export to Photoshop. Sara has requested this. The 32bits FLOAT data from APP is normalised in the range of 0 to 1 and maybe this gives a problem for PS in correctly interpreting the data.
Another question, do you need to open the tiff with Camera Raw? Can't you just load it as TIFF into PS? Is the results different then or the same?
Cheers,
Mabula
Thanks a lot! This helped. Somehow the "open automatic with camera raw" was turned on and somehow this messed up the image mode.
Now it opens in 32 bit and after converting to 16 bit all looks great.
Here is the result. Just some mild 2px Unsharp Mask, levels slightly darker, and the Astronomy Tools Color blotch removal and space noise removal.
Actually the least post processing I have done and the best result so far (still way to go though 😉 )
Mhhh... looking back at the original from APP and this one I am still not happy... the convert to 16bit is somehow very lossy or I am doing something completely wrong. With which software are you guys doing the post processing?
Mhhh... looking back at the original from APP and this one I am still not happy... the convert to 16bit is somehow very lossy or I am doing something completely wrong. With which software are you guys doing the post processing?
Hi Frank,
I agree, the first APP version is better. More signal to be seen in the background and less saturated stars. In your latest version it seems you have thrown away information by being too aggressive on the black point in levels and possibly being too aggressive on the sharpening possibly?
Regarding post processing in photoshop or other applications, I personally do everything in APP nowadays but used to use Photoshop a lot.
Maybe have a look at this video on post processing in APP using RGB data if you haven't done so already?
https://www.astropixelprocessor.com/post-processing-background-and-star-color-correction/
Let me know if that helps 😉
Mabula
Thanks Mabula, will look at it tomorrow!
Actually I watched your "Light Pollution CBG, CSC" video. This helped a lot. Also I exported the result into Photoshop as Jpeg which also made things a lot easier.
That is the latest version. Lets see if I can get more out tomorrow after watching your post processing video.
Hi Frank,
Yes these 2 are certainly better 😉
In your latest version, I think the colors are very good! Bluesish stars (in the previous version those stars were more cyan) in the globular cluster and some yelow/red stars as well. Really looks good to me. (similar to the colors in Sara's M13 😉 )
There is some reddish noise in the background, maybe you injected some saturation into the background? Otherwise, the stretch is maybe a bit too strong... for the data.
Regarding suggestions for improvement:
How much integration time (how many light frames and their exposures) and what kind of optics and camera did you use?
What Iso did you use if it's a DSLR?
Could it be that focus was not yet perfect?
Kind regards,
Mabula
Thanks for your reply and your suggestions.
Yes the red is somehow strange. I tried to fiddle with the saturation threshold but even after light pollution removal etc I could not completely get rid of it. It can well be that it really is some light pollution residue, I am quite close to Cologne and M3 moved straight over the city this night.
I tried several exposures as I am not quite sure still how long to expose globular clusters. I mixed around 20 * 60s, 20 * 180 and 20 * 300 all ISO 400 to see what the result was. I had to ditch a lot of subs as my mount (Bresser Exos-2) is actually not as good as I hoped, I am currently trying to send it back to the dealer and get a HEQ5. As for the OTA it is a GSO 6'' Imaging Newton with 600mm focal length. The cam is an EOS 1000Da with Baader MPCC and an IDAS LPS D1 filter.
I am still struggling with the collimation. It looks fine to me through the cheshire but maybe I need to seek someone in the area with more experience to help me set up the secondary... So yes focus might not have been perfect even though I used a Bahtinov mask
Best F-
How lovely it is to have a day off and fiddle around with stars 😉
Here is the latest version. As suggested a little less stretching / curves to 65/60 and 185/190, just very mild level adjustment in the blacks around 2-4 per color, very mild unsharp mask (50%, 2pixels) and high pass filter overlay 2px radius.
I think this is the most natural looking of all.
File over 15MB so here is a dropbox link:
www.dropbox.com/s/z8fg3tf9djt6jie/M3-St-5.png?dl=0
Edit by Mabula:
converted the PNG in dropbox to a JPG at 80% quality:
Very nice Frank, I think this is probably as good as you can get from the data. The colors are good and we can see some faint signals in the background 😉
Further improvements should probably come from having the newton a bit better collimated I think. This should help in better and sharper details 😉
And... for your EOS1000Da it's probably good to use a bit higher iso to reduce read noise somewhat? Do you know how the read noise changes per iso for your camera?
Check this link:
http://www.sensorgen.info/CanonEOS-1000D.html
By increasing the iso to 800 or even 1600, you might get less noise in your background 😉 The read noise gets quite a bit lower if you increase the ISO for your camera, so I would definitely try this.
Cheers,
Mabula





