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June 24 2026 APP 2.0.0-beta46 has been released !

Improved internal memory configuration (lower ! memory usage), fixed beta45 startup issue, fixed Set Save Directory & 2-panel mosaics.

May 27 2026 APP 2.0.0-beta45 has been released !

Fully Multi-Threaded LNC, many improvements for the registration engine, platform upgrade, and further tuning of internal memory consumption and memory release back to OS.

Apr 14 2026: Google Pay, Apple Pay & WeChat Pay added as payment options

Update on the 2.0.0 release & the full manual

We are getting close to the 2.0.0 stable release and the full manual. The manual will soon become available on the website and also in PDF format. Both versions will be identical and once released, will start to follow the APP release cycle and thus will stay up-to-date to the latest APP version.

Once 2.0.0 is released, the price for APP will increase. Owner's license holders will not need to pay an upgrade fee to use 2.0.0, neither do Renter's license holders.

 

Light pollution removal - completely confused

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(@brendan)
White Dwarf
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 13
Topic starter  

Hi,

I've just spent an hour trying to figure out the light pollution tool and I'm getting nowhere.

I have to draw some boxes. Why?

I've been through this video and I'm no clearer: https://www.astropixelprocessor.com/part-4-light-pollution-correction-and-background-calibration-of-the-mosaic-tutorial-milky-way-to-rho-ophiuchi-by-mabula/

Some boxes are 'right', in green. Some are 'maybe right' in yellow. Some are 'wrong' in red. What are these probabilities based on? How do I choose which boxes are right? All I can glean is that I should choose some sky without nebula or galaxy. 

Even the tutorial says 'Probably' the best step is to focus on one part. Well, is that probably or definitely or what?

Also, why does the button to the left say 'Show corrected image' and when I click it, it shows the model, then the button changes to say 'Show correction model' and when I click it, it shows the image? Isn't this the wrong way around?

Also also, how do I remove all boxes and start again without having to reload the image?

Also also also, why are some always yellow? I just end up drawing new boxes and calculating new models, chasing yellow boxes around, removing red boxes, removing yellow boxes, switching between the model and the image, and really not getting anywhere.

Then there are the other settings on the right with the cryptic labels ST: and BA: and so on. What do these do? What on earth does '15% BG, 3 sigma, 2.5% base' even mean?

My frustration is probably showing here.

Could someone point towards a definitive guide please? Something that explains this, that I can actually refer to rather than watch an hour long video? As in, a user guide? Please?

Thanks, Brendan

 



   
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(@Anonymous 174)
Joined: 9 years ago
Posts: 5702
 
Posted by: @brendan

Hi,

I've just spent an hour trying to figure out the light pollution tool and I'm getting nowhere.

I have to draw some boxes. Why?

Because APP doesn't know where to place them. It can't really be sure about what the true background is and needs user input to sample the background in places where there is no nebulosity for instance.

Some boxes are 'right', in green. Some are 'maybe right' in yellow. Some are 'wrong' in red. What are these probabilities based on? How do I choose which boxes are right? All I can glean is that I should choose some sky without nebula or galaxy. 

The colors can be a bit confusing as they don't reflect them being really wrong or not. APP uses the boxes to calculate a background model. This model is rigid as true gradients are usually gradual and thus having a rigid model will make life a bit easier for the user. You also then don't need a lot of boxes usually. This can be done, but usually is a sign that there is an issue with the data. When a box is yellow or red, it only means that the sample in that box doesn't reflect the model very well. However, if it looks good to you, you can leave them.

Even the tutorial says 'Probably' the best step is to focus on one part. Well, is that probably or definitely or what?

That depends on the data and since every data set is different, the advice can change a bit. The best approach is to place about 5 boxes all around the image, when possible. Press calculate and look at the result. Also select a big stretch (the 30% preset at the right of the APP window) to really bring out the gradients. Then, you "sneak up" on areas that are problematic, not placing boxes directly on top of a bright spot, but on the edges of it, press calculate again and work your way up like that. Normally you wouldn't need more then 10 boxes on average. But that depends on the data.

Then there are the other settings on the right with the cryptic labels ST: and BA: and so on. What do these do? What on earth does '15% BG, 3 sigma, 2.5% base' even mean?

When you click on the red question mark next to that setting, you get an overview of that side of APP. Maybe that makes it clearer? If not, happy to help.



   
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(@brendan)
White Dwarf
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 13
Topic starter  

Thanks for this.

So I draw boxes where there is no nebulosity, or bright spots, but ideally on the edges between brighter and darker areas?

And yes, the colours are confusing! As is the entire interface on the right. I didn't even know the question mark in red (never put user prompts in red, it's a warning colour) would show me extra information.

And we still really need a user guide, right?



   
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(@Anonymous 174)
Joined: 9 years ago
Posts: 5702
 

You draw boxes on parts that you think are background, stars in them is fine, but nebulosity should be avoided (if not possible, I only place one of the most faint part I can see).

Yes, a manual is worked on as well and will arrive with the next stable release (in between we will have a beta version).



   
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